Pottering At The Hagg

After a rather crazy day at work, I arranged to meet Dan at Bell Hagg for some evening mild esoterica. Things got off to an inauspicious start when I tried to lead Furherbuch, an unstarred VS which makes it into the graded list in the back of the guide, end found myself unwilling to hand traverse a mediocre break with no footholds whatsoever and ending up hand traversing the top of the crag instead. Hmm, poor show. At this point we established that my 20-odd metre long half rope wasn't really long enough to double over, climb the routes and reach the belay at the top. Fail.



Undeterred we had a little play on the rocking block of Hangman's Arete before wandering along to Scoop Arete. Dan led up to the capping roof easily, but was perturbed by the mantle-y finishing move and after a damn good go at psyching himself up for it, took the easier rightwards finish. The mantle wasn't too bad on second, but would definitely have been a bit of a heart-stopper on lead...


Dan wrestling with his bravery on Scoop Arete

By this stage the sun had set, but there was still time for us both to solo The Lurcher, a great HS 4c with fun moves and good holds. I then bouldered out the heel hooktastic start of Brown's Unmentionable (and wished I'd taken a harness and the rope up with me, the top section looks fun) before enjoying Dan's efforts to get his foot above his head.

We finished the evening's entertainment with a play on Lurcher's Nose Front, a V1 5c with some perplexing fridge-hugging manoeuvres. Somehow our progress just about outpaced the gathering gloom, and we both finally managed the problem just before it got too dark to see any of the holds.

All in all a successful evening, and I'm excited about returning with a sensible amount of rope and a little more gumption.

Oooh, Look At The Pretty Colours

After spending most of today staring out of a train window at everything looking sunny and ace, i was chomping at the bit to get out for some evening climbing once I'd made it home. I arranged to meet Adam, Kate and Tammy the enthusiastic hound at Burbage South, and headed out into the Peak District. I arrived a bit early, so spent a few minutes pottering around on some problems I'd done before (and finding them disconcertingly hard work). Eventually I wandered down to the Tank, and managed to flash a V2 I'd failed dismally on a couple of years ago.

Adam, Kate and the mad canine soon arrived, and we spent a good couple of hours variously succeeding and failing on a whole bunch of problems. I established that I still can't smear or dyno, and that being able to reach holds Adam can't is still funny. We also both flashed the easiest V3 6a in the world (but couldn't even work out how to, let alone actually do, the V2 next to it), yay us.



And we were treated to a glorious sunset on the way back to the cars. Aceness. More of this please.

A Quick Fix

Amongst all the recent tumult of house-buying and various other stress-inducing diversions, I managed to find time on Saturday for a few hours at Rivelin with Jaime. After arriving in the drizzle the weather soon dried up, and the sun even came out by mid afternoon. Jaime was leading her first routes of the year after a recent holiday in font, and I was trying to remember how gear worked after all this recent bouldering, but we both had a pretty good time.

Highlights included romping up Jonad Rib without even a tiny whimper at the unprotected 4c moves, and retro-flashing Blizzard Ridge on lead. It felt pretty steady, and only confirmed my confusion from when I seconded it previously that people consider it to be bold and high in the grade. Sure there are several 5a moves, but the gear is good and not that spaced, and none of the 5a moves are that hard (unless you're unusually short I'd imagine). It's still a brilliant route though. If you haven't done it then go and rectify that now (and do Croton Oil too while you're there).

Less highlights were my initial failure to remember how to climb whilst uselessing my way up a Hard Severe, accidentally climbing round the crux of Angle Rib, an unstarred HVS (although in my defence the move I avoided was committing, above some very worrying sounding gear and hopelessly eliminate) and accidentally sandbagging Jaime on Cocaine Place. This was an HVS just left of Wilkinson's Wall which I'd previously contemplate soloing. It turns out that the good looking gear isn't, and the crux comes after the tricky moves to pass this (and is really hard). Ooops.

Overall it was a pretty successful day, although somehow I still managed to avoid doing either Kremlin Crack (which still looks ace, but like very hard work indeed) or Altar Crack. The latter is getting a bit ridiculous now. I think it might be the only three star VS on Eastern Grit (or at least one of very few remaining) which I haven't done, and it's the one nearest to my house. Oh dear. I must learn to either layback, man up some more, jam thin cracks, or ideally all three. The shame, the shame.

Hopefully the next few weeks will bring some evening climbing to the party. Watch this space...

The Good, The Bad and The Crush

A combination of low funds, and an uninspiring forecast led to Scottish winter plans being shelved once again, and me heading up the M1 to stay chez Julie and Andy in Leeds. Saturday's forecast looked vaguely promising, so Andy and I decided to go and investigate Clattering Stones near Widdop. Our journey there was obstructed by the Widdop road being closed, so we had to detour via the wilds of Burnley to reach the top end of the reservoir, where a short hack up the hillside took us to the boulders. Whilst not extensive, there is a good concentration of excellent looking problems, but unfortunately for us a lot of them were rather green and damp looking.


Andy oh so close to the top of Morning Sickness

After sulking a bit and eating some lunch, we decided to have an optimistic look at a V4 dyno called Morning Sickness. Neither of us have any dynoing skills to speak of, but we spent an entertaining while getting remarkably close, before giving up and going to Clatterjack Wall in the hope that it had dried off a bit. It hadn't, but closer inspection suggested that the holds on some of the problems might be dry enough for them to be worth a shot. First up was Clatterjack Pencil, a V2 up a thin seam, which Andy flashed and I managed second go. Next was Fontanelles, a V6 which Andy dispatched very quickly, but which I couldn't make much headway with. We decided to beat a retreat to Widdop, but the weather had other ideas and started to rain on us. This brought the day to a rather premature end, but we had seen enough to bring us back another time after a dry spell.

We spent Saturday morning trying to sleep off a red wine induced hangover, before the sun came out and we decided to see what delights Shipley Glen might have in store. Conditions were, if anything, a little warm when we first arrived, but it felt like Spring was here and the last vestiges of my hangover melted away. We started off around YMC Wall, and rattled through a host of fun problems, including the very high and very fun Glen Arete, before Andy's mate Chris arrived, and we moved to Leaper Roof. Here I enjoyed a brief moment of glory by flashing Leaper after watching the others fall off the last move, before we moved on again.


High on Glen Arete

Next on the agenda were the twin V1 aretes of Donner and Blitzen, one of which required an exciting slap for a jug, and the other had an exciting highball finish which certainly got a bit of adrenalin flowing. By this time the sun was nearing the horizon, and the temperature was perfect for some crushing, so we made for our chief objectives for the day. Manson Wall, a V5 6b for me, Paul's Wall, a V7 6b for Andy, and Red Baron, a desperate looking undercut arete at V7 6c for Chris.


Chris trying hard on Red Baron


Strange goings on below Manson's Wall (above Andy) and Paul's Wall (above Chris)

Manson's Wall looked a little high, with the crux apparently the slap for the top in a position where falling off would earn you quite a lot of air-time. At least the landing was good. The climbing was just off vertical, with a tough rock up off a manky crimp to reach a small but positive 'ear' before some chicanery with another manky crimp allowed the crucial slap. On my first go I just tickled the ear before falling off. Next time I managed to get my fingers round it, and furtled the next manky crimp, but spent too long thinking about the fall and grabbed the inviting looking tree just next to me. After watching Chris make slow, but definite progress on Red Baron I reluctantly had another go. I wasn't very inspired about my chances of success, but as soon as I grabbed the ear things felt more positive. I quickly moved my right hand onto the second crimp and before I could bottle it again I jumped my left foot up onto the thin edge and stood up on it. Suddenly I was very committed, and flung my right foot out to a distant edge for a bit more purchase before I realised I was going to have to slap for the top or just fall off. With huge relief I hit it and lo, it was good. The fun wasn't totally over though, as my wrist chose that moment to stop working, and I had a heart-in-mouth few seconds before finally pulling over the top. My first V5, and I think my first English 6b all in one problem. Maximum aceness. After that I decided to quit whilst I was ahead, and watched Chris have another couple of goes on Red Baron before Andy nearly reached the top of Phil's Wall a couple of times before being thwarted by some really, really manky crimps. Then it started to go dark, so we went our separate ways after another excellent day's climbing, and with plenty of inspiration for a return visit someday soon.

The List Of Psyche Part 3 - Scotland & Ireland

So, now for the final leg of this voyage through my sea of psyche. All of these suffer from being far away, and for the most part covered in rain and/or midges, but that doesn't stop them being great...

Grey Panther - E1 5b, Kilt Rock
My number 1 to do route. An Extreme Rock tick with jamming and bridging at the same time and it looks incredible.

Road To Ruin - E2 5b, Kilt Rock
More classy jamming and bridging but with added offwidth factor.

The Swan - E1 5b, Eala Sheadha
More sea cliff girdle action.

Spring Squill - E1 5b, Pabbay
Hard to get to, but sounds amazing.

Prophecy Of Drowning - E2 5c, Pabbay
Its reputation of amazingness precedes it.

Original Route - E1 5b, Old Man Of Hoy
History and aesthetics aside, there's a dirty great crack to climb, and a proper summit tick. Winningest.

West Flank Route - E1 5b, Cir Mhor
Granite chimneys and cracks, lovely.

Shibboleth - E2 3c, Buachaille Etive Mor
"The finest route of its grade and length on the planet" - sounds worthwhile.

White Wall Crack - E1 5b, Buachaille Etive Mor
Reputedly ace.

Unicorn - E1 5b, Stob Coire Nan Lochan
More bridging cornery goodness...

Yo-Yo - E1 5b, Aonach Dubh
... And yet more.

The Big Top - E1 5b, Aonach Dubh
There's an incredible looking photo of this in Gary Latter's Bumper Book Of Lies.

King Kong - E2 5c, Ben Nevis
Another rather over-ambitious route, but damn, it sounds ace.

Minus One Direct - E1 5b, Ben Nevis
I've wanted to do this ever since we saw a party on it from Tower Ridge years ago. A Whole lot of E1 for your money!

The Devil's Alternative - E1 5a, Hell's Lum Crag
Need to get improve my granite slab skills first though.

The Needle - E1 5b, Shelterstone Crag
A mega-classic.

Hall Of Mirrors - E2 5b, Sgurr A'Mhuilinn
A jamming crack/slab double header.

Angel Face - E2 5c, Beinn Eighe
Apparently both sensational and improbable. Doppelwin.

The Pillar - E2 5b, Diabeg
Another one of those mega-classics.

Jack The Ripper - E1 5b, Stac Pollaidh
Awesome situations on an awesome crag.

Bloodlust - E1 5b, Sheigra
Steep moves on big pockets by the sea.

The Sarclet Pimpernel - E1 5a, Sarclet
Basically everything at Sarclet looks great, this in particular, and it's got a puntastic name. Hurrah.

Main Mast - E2 5b/c , Sail Rock, Donegal
Everybody who's done it rates it as the best E2 ever, so it must be good.

Railroad - E1 5b, Fairhead
Looks ace, Fireball's companion route.

Crib Pad Crack - E1 5b, Fairhead
More jamming goodness.

Toby Jug - E1 5b, Fairhead
Yet another jamming testpiece.

An Bealach Runda - E1 5b, Fairhead
A proper Fairhead main cliff experience.

Conchubair - E2 5c, Fairhead
I love Fairhead corners...

Equinox - E2 5b, Fairhead
... And here's another.

I think I'll stop there for the moment. Now all I need is a really long holiday, some unlikely weather, and some more skillz. Hmm.

The List Of Psyche Part 2 - England

And on we go. There seems to be a fairly heavy geographical bias towards the South West and the Lakes, but that's where my psyche is obviously keen to go:

Rock Dancer - E1 5b, Carn Kenidjack
Improbable looking and apparently jug infested.

Sacre Couer - E2 5c, Blackchurch
Crimpy, slabby, mad looking bit of rock.

Astral Stroll - E1 5b, Carn Gloose
I heart sea cliff girdle traverses.

Matchless - E1 5b, Oldwalls Point
More crimpy slabby, mad rock goodness.

Crimtyphon - E2 5c, Compass Point
Apparently rather good.

Doors Of Perception - E1 5b, Baggy Point
Good name, climbs a slabby corner and I like Baggy a lot.

Heart Of The Sun - E2 5c, Baggy Point
Adventure with a capital AAARGH.

Fruitflancase - E1 5a, The Dewerstone
Classic granite crack climbing.

The Ocean - E1 5b, Lundy
American Beauty, only harder and with more vegetation? Sounds great.

Fifth Appendage - E1/2 5b, Lundy
We have previous.

The Promised Land - E3 6a, Lundy
Too hard, but a mega-inspiring line.

Headline - E1 5b, Lundy
Should have done it last year but wimped out. Looks great.

Magical Mystery Tour - E1 5b, Berry Head
See above comment about sea cliff girdles. Not too sure about the swim though.

Coronation Street - E1 5b, Cheddar Gorge
Uber-classic at an awesome venue. Apparently rather committing...

Ricochet Wall - E1 5b, Shooter's Nab
A nice line at a crag I really want to go back to. Sweatyman also looks ace.

Aladdinsane - E1 5a, Trobarrow
Offwidthy.

Night Of The Hot Pies - E1 5b, Cathedral Quarry
For the name alone. As a bonus it's apparently also quite good.

Razor Crack - E1 5a, Neckband Crag
A crack in a slab? Oh yes.

Aphasia - E2 5b, Sergeant Crag Slabs
A slab with gear and holds and maximum goodness.

Phoenix - E1 5b, Scafell East Buttress
The top pitch looks amazing.

The Philistine - E1 5b, High Crag
Great photo in the guide. Allegedly not that bold really. Hmmm.

Raindrop - E1 5b, Black Crag
Aceness.

Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect - E1 5a, Black Crag
Might only be HVS, but it's a superdirect. Ooh yeah.

Columbia - E1 5b, Stonestar Crag
A little bit out of the way.

Bloodhound - E2 5b, Gouther Crag
A bit bold, but a lovely piece of rock.

Praying Mantis - E1 5b, Goat Crag
Ungainly crack climbing for the win.

Arcturus - E1 5b, Pavey Ark
Apparently the peg isn't that bad...

Capella - E1 5b, Pavey Ark
Low in the grade and free of scary pegs.

Poker Face - E1 5b, Pavey Ark
A challenge to climb this without hearing Lady Gaga in your head the whole way up.

Woolly Jumper - E1 5b, Bowfell Buttress
Exposed!

The List Of Psyche Part 1 - Wales

After last weekend helped to further demystify the E-grades, I've been mentally cobbling together a little Extreme List of Psyche. Some of it's a little ambitious, but, hell, a boy can dream...

Cemetery Gates - E1 5b, Dinas Cromlech
A soft touch, and I've bottled getting on it before.

Ivy Sepulchre - E1 5b, Dinas Cromlech
A bridging corner, what's not to like?

Grond - E2 5b, Dinas Cromlech
Blatantly far too hard, but it's supposedly the ultimate test of jamming...

Plexus - E1 5b, Dinas Mot
Maybe the best rock in the world?

The Grooves - E1 5b, Cyrn Las
More corners, and a Hard Rock tick too.

Fear Of Infection - E4 6a, Cwm Glas Bach
The offwidthers offwidth.

Vember - E1 5b, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
There's chimneying, and it would right the shameful wrong of never having climbed on cloggy.

Bella Lugosi Is Dead - E1 5b, Slate Quarries
Well protected slate? Yes please.

German Schoolgirl - E2 5c, Slate Quarries
Mmm, more bridging goodness.

California Arete - E1 4c, Slate Quarries
OK, so I'll never summon up the bottle to solo this, but it looks ace.

Gnat Attack - E1 5b, Bus Stop Quarry
Apparently the bold top section is easy. Eek.

The Groove - E1 5b, Llech Du
A proper big route on a proper big crag.

The Plum - E1 5b, Craig Bwlch Y Moch
What a line.

Barbarian - E1 5b, Craig Pant Ifan
Looks ace, if a bit surly.

The Exterminating Angel - E3 5c, Craig Cwm Trysgl
So, an E3 on a slab. But it's a slab made of amaze-o-rock. It has to be good, surely?

Atlantis/North West Passage - E1 5b, Castell Helen
P1 of Atlantis and P2 of North West Passage looks like an awesome combination.

Anarchist - E1 5b, Red Wall
Andy keeps trying to persuade me that Red Wall is a fun place. I'm unconvinced, but this looks rather good.

Mousetrap - E2 5b, Mousetrap Zawn
Incredible rock in an incredible place.

Emulator - E1 5b, Gogarth Main Cliff
Yet another ace looking corner.

Cripple Creek - E3 5b, Craig Dorys
Somehow compellingly terrifying.

Sinecure - E1 5b, Carreg-y-Barcud
A cool looking route at a great crag.

Beyond The Azimuth - E1 5b, Carreg-y-Barcud
Awkward crack climbing nonsense.

Lucky Strike - E1 5b, Range East
Been wanting to do this for ages.

Preposterous Tales - E2 5b, Range East
More compelling terror, but this time with added darkness.

Cool For Cats - E1 5b, Range East
Looks totally awesome.

The Strait Gate - E1 5b, Mother Carey's
Might need to get a bit fitter for this one...

The might keep me busy for a while. Next up, England.