Sunday, 6 March 2011

The List Of Psyche Part 1 - Wales

After last weekend helped to further demystify the E-grades, I've been mentally cobbling together a little Extreme List of Psyche. Some of it's a little ambitious, but, hell, a boy can dream...

Cemetery Gates - E1 5b, Dinas Cromlech
A soft touch, and I've bottled getting on it before.

Ivy Sepulchre - E1 5b, Dinas Cromlech
A bridging corner, what's not to like?

Grond - E2 5b, Dinas Cromlech
Blatantly far too hard, but it's supposedly the ultimate test of jamming...

Plexus - E1 5b, Dinas Mot
Maybe the best rock in the world?

The Grooves - E1 5b, Cyrn Las
More corners, and a Hard Rock tick too.

Fear Of Infection - E4 6a, Cwm Glas Bach
The offwidthers offwidth.

Vember - E1 5b, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
There's chimneying, and it would right the shameful wrong of never having climbed on cloggy.

Bella Lugosi Is Dead - E1 5b, Slate Quarries
Well protected slate? Yes please.

German Schoolgirl - E2 5c, Slate Quarries
Mmm, more bridging goodness.

California Arete - E1 4c, Slate Quarries
OK, so I'll never summon up the bottle to solo this, but it looks ace.

Gnat Attack - E1 5b, Bus Stop Quarry
Apparently the bold top section is easy. Eek.

The Groove - E1 5b, Llech Du
A proper big route on a proper big crag.

The Plum - E1 5b, Craig Bwlch Y Moch
What a line.

Barbarian - E1 5b, Craig Pant Ifan
Looks ace, if a bit surly.

The Exterminating Angel - E3 5c, Craig Cwm Trysgl
So, an E3 on a slab. But it's a slab made of amaze-o-rock. It has to be good, surely?

Atlantis/North West Passage - E1 5b, Castell Helen
P1 of Atlantis and P2 of North West Passage looks like an awesome combination.

Anarchist - E1 5b, Red Wall
Andy keeps trying to persuade me that Red Wall is a fun place. I'm unconvinced, but this looks rather good.

Mousetrap - E2 5b, Mousetrap Zawn
Incredible rock in an incredible place.

Emulator - E1 5b, Gogarth Main Cliff
Yet another ace looking corner.

Cripple Creek - E3 5b, Craig Dorys
Somehow compellingly terrifying.

Sinecure - E1 5b, Carreg-y-Barcud
A cool looking route at a great crag.

Beyond The Azimuth - E1 5b, Carreg-y-Barcud
Awkward crack climbing nonsense.

Lucky Strike - E1 5b, Range East
Been wanting to do this for ages.

Preposterous Tales - E2 5b, Range East
More compelling terror, but this time with added darkness.

Cool For Cats - E1 5b, Range East
Looks totally awesome.

The Strait Gate - E1 5b, Mother Carey's
Might need to get a bit fitter for this one...

The might keep me busy for a while. Next up, England.

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