Tuesday, 8 March 2011

The List Of Psyche Part 3 - Scotland & Ireland

So, now for the final leg of this voyage through my sea of psyche. All of these suffer from being far away, and for the most part covered in rain and/or midges, but that doesn't stop them being great...

Grey Panther - E1 5b, Kilt Rock
My number 1 to do route. An Extreme Rock tick with jamming and bridging at the same time and it looks incredible.

Road To Ruin - E2 5b, Kilt Rock
More classy jamming and bridging but with added offwidth factor.

The Swan - E1 5b, Eala Sheadha
More sea cliff girdle action.

Spring Squill - E1 5b, Pabbay
Hard to get to, but sounds amazing.

Prophecy Of Drowning - E2 5c, Pabbay
Its reputation of amazingness precedes it.

Original Route - E1 5b, Old Man Of Hoy
History and aesthetics aside, there's a dirty great crack to climb, and a proper summit tick. Winningest.

West Flank Route - E1 5b, Cir Mhor
Granite chimneys and cracks, lovely.

Shibboleth - E2 3c, Buachaille Etive Mor
"The finest route of its grade and length on the planet" - sounds worthwhile.

White Wall Crack - E1 5b, Buachaille Etive Mor
Reputedly ace.

Unicorn - E1 5b, Stob Coire Nan Lochan
More bridging cornery goodness...

Yo-Yo - E1 5b, Aonach Dubh
... And yet more.

The Big Top - E1 5b, Aonach Dubh
There's an incredible looking photo of this in Gary Latter's Bumper Book Of Lies.

King Kong - E2 5c, Ben Nevis
Another rather over-ambitious route, but damn, it sounds ace.

Minus One Direct - E1 5b, Ben Nevis
I've wanted to do this ever since we saw a party on it from Tower Ridge years ago. A Whole lot of E1 for your money!

The Devil's Alternative - E1 5a, Hell's Lum Crag
Need to get improve my granite slab skills first though.

The Needle - E1 5b, Shelterstone Crag
A mega-classic.

Hall Of Mirrors - E2 5b, Sgurr A'Mhuilinn
A jamming crack/slab double header.

Angel Face - E2 5c, Beinn Eighe
Apparently both sensational and improbable. Doppelwin.

The Pillar - E2 5b, Diabeg
Another one of those mega-classics.

Jack The Ripper - E1 5b, Stac Pollaidh
Awesome situations on an awesome crag.

Bloodlust - E1 5b, Sheigra
Steep moves on big pockets by the sea.

The Sarclet Pimpernel - E1 5a, Sarclet
Basically everything at Sarclet looks great, this in particular, and it's got a puntastic name. Hurrah.

Main Mast - E2 5b/c , Sail Rock, Donegal
Everybody who's done it rates it as the best E2 ever, so it must be good.

Railroad - E1 5b, Fairhead
Looks ace, Fireball's companion route.

Crib Pad Crack - E1 5b, Fairhead
More jamming goodness.

Toby Jug - E1 5b, Fairhead
Yet another jamming testpiece.

An Bealach Runda - E1 5b, Fairhead
A proper Fairhead main cliff experience.

Conchubair - E2 5c, Fairhead
I love Fairhead corners...

Equinox - E2 5b, Fairhead
... And here's another.

I think I'll stop there for the moment. Now all I need is a really long holiday, some unlikely weather, and some more skillz. Hmm.


  1. Damn damn, I read your comment "perhaps I need to find an E2 in a similar vein to crush. Any suggestions on a postcard to the usual address please" a couple of posts ago and got all excited as I have a recommendation, then I see your next three posts where you have already compiled a mahoosive list and any recommendation likely to be tacked on the bottom. Must be quicker off the mark ;-)

    But I'll give it anyway - Red Square at Nesscliffe! I was eager to have a go just before I lost the climbing bug. And pleeeeeease let me know if you go as I really want to take pictures there, the rock is an amazing colour and texture :)

  2. Funnily enough, I suddenly remembered about Red Square this evening (entirely independently of your suggestion) and have added it to my newly increased list. I realised I was only a few routes short of 100, and found a few bonus routes to add :)

    It does look ace...